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2008PADDLEBOARDING SCOTLAND BOARD CONSTRUCTION
Just before New Years Eve of 2008, I started to construct my San O, here is the general process and the problems I faced as I went along. Perhaps this may help you if you build one....
Stage 1- Unpacking, check all parts, easy if the parts were there which they were with me....
Stage 2- Fibreglass taping the resin fixing all the fingerjoints on the panels.
Stage 3- Gluing sheer clamps together then gluing them to the side panels, messy and difficult,
cut up pipe sections saved a massive bill with clamps. I also used a lot of posicle sticks and weights to push down on the clamps onto the floor to make sure they made total conatact with the side panels.
Stage 4- Stitch and gluing the panels. USing the copper wire provided, and drilling equi-distant holes, the bottom
panels were stitched together by winding them.
Stage 5- Side panels stitched on using same technique and board structure moved around to make it accurate
Stage 7- Critical part, 'truing the hull', using spirit levels, adjusting and fine tuning of the boat making sure its level and
not twisted, took me ages but good result. Once filleting in next section, cannot adjust any twists then.
Stage 8- Filleting of all interior joins with cabosill/wood powder mixed with the epoxy resin.
Stage 9-Removal of wires and refilling holes with epoxy and wood powder (tedious).The best way to remove the wires are to buy a mini torch burner and heat the end of one and with pliers pull them out, magically they slide out!
Stage 9- Completely resin interior and top interior to waterproof then glue top to hull, lots of weights resting on epoxy resin glue.
Stage 10- Difficult if not epoxied before. Epoxy with cloth, all board. Then rollover new layers of epoxy wait to dry. I slightly botched the cloth on the top as it didnt hand down uniformly on the sides by an inch, varied somewhat, still fully resined though and proofed
Stage 11- Attachment of pre made skeg with resin/fillet and cloth
Stage 12- Sanding, sanding, sanding.Labourious expecially without sander
Stage 13- Varnishing, unlucky for some, put on with thin layers.
Stage 14- Final bits, such as wave deflector, pad, breather hole (very important avoids ruptures)
READY TO USE! I celebrated by taking it to the west coast of Scotland and was blessed with amazing weather
Future damage, I am not too worried now I made the board, I have a pretty good idea of any mends minor and major.
Other important points- Make sure the resin is above 10 degrees, more for drying so heat if its the winter (see tips on clc site). Dont skimp, you will regret it. Mix the resin thoroughly. Really make sure the hull is straight before you fillet. The forums on the clc site are excellent with helpful people, dont be afraid to ask silly questions, I did. Also, the site has invaluable 1 o 1 on it too! All in all the board is great for me and goes fast, not world champion fast but good enough for me at this stage. Its good with choppy conditions with short period windwells and cuts through well, I thought it would do badly in such conditions. Took longer than I thought it would to make but its still good. I guess if you had 2 full weeks working full time on it, you could pretty much do it in that time.
2008
THE END RESULT
Photos of the finished board and trip to the west coast coming this week (15 June), here and in the gallery section. The film from the cameras need to be developed as my digital camera broke :(. This is also the reason why the filleting and resin process photos are not here. I will try to find a way to get them off the memory card of my mobile phone camera that broke!